Mayberry-esque after school tales of warm cookies and cold milk, aren’t mine. In my world cookies were for Christmas; fruit, yogurt, and cheese were snacks. I never quite developed a sensory memory for the ubiquitous toll house. Instead of invoking memories of backyard tag, championship games, and mom with flour dusted apron, I’ve been a bit bored by them. >em>Until Now. This is not my recipe. It came to me by way of a third-party. I have been told it was created by Cook’s Illustrated. It doesn’t surprise me in the least bit. This cookie is filled with notes of toffee, enough salt to tease your palate, the bite of bitter chocolate and manages to be both soft and crispy. The recipe is a bit fussy, but worth it. trust me….
Browned Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies
makes 16
from cook’s illustrated and only v.slightly changed
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
14 Tbs unsalted butter–divided
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup dark brown sugar-firmly packed
1 tsp kosher salt
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 1/4 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
3/4 cups toasted walnut halves
Heat oven to 375F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour and baking soda in a bowl and set aside. Heat 10 Tbs of butter in a skillet over medium heat, swirling continually, until it becomes a dark golden brown and it smells a bit toffee like. This should take about 3-5 minutes…the larger the skillet, the quicker the reaction. Remove from heat and pour butter into mixing bowl. Add the remaining butter and stir until it is melted. Add the sugars, salt and vanilla to the bowl and hand-whisk until mixed well. Add egg and egg yolk and whisk until smooth and begins to lighten in color a bit. Let rest for 3 minutes. whisk again for 30 seconds and let rest for 3 minutes. Do this procedure 2 more times. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to stir in the flour mixture so that it is just combined–do not over-mix. Stir in chocolate and nuts. Scoop out large balls (about 3 Tbs) onto to the parchment, placing about 2″ apart. Bake for about 10-14 minutes or until the edges are slightly browned. Cool on wire rack.
*the original recipe calls for table salt, semi -sweet chips or chunks and chopped pecans or walnuts. i prefer kosher salt, bittersweet (60-70% cocoa solids) and large pieces of walnut which is why i inserted them into the recipe. try it both ways and decide for yourself!
Sometimes after a long weekend of heavy eating, I’ll prepare something really simple. This dish, bright and light, comes together rather quickly.
Shaved Zucchini
4 medium zucchini-about 4 cups
2 garlic cloves–peeled and smashed
2 Tbs olive oil
1/2 tsp dry thyme
zest from 1 lemon
juice of 1/2 lemon
salt and pepper to taste
Shave the zucchini using a vegetable peeler. Make long strips and shave until you reach the heavily seeded part. turn and begin again. In the end, you will have a core. discard. Heat olive oil in a skillet. Add the whole, but smashed garlic and let it brown. Remove the garlic (you are using it just to flavor the oil) and toss in the zucchini. Toss continually and allow the zucchini to cook through…this will take about 5-10 minutes. Add zest, thyme and lemon juice. Taste for seasoning–add salt and pepper to taste.
We have neighbors with fabulous taste. Crown molding, silver service, art gallery lighting kind of taste. I almost wonder if Mike and I are their pro-bono friends. While residing in California, we rang in London’s new year together. Complete with champagne, caviar, and crown roast. Imagine my horror, as I catch from the corner of my eye, Mike, in all his glory with hands full of palmiers. With flaky crumbs falling to his beard and a smile as broad as his shoulders he was complimenting the hostess on her fabulous dessert. Turning to me, he gave a grand wink and said “you should make these”. So I did.
Simple Easy Heart Palmiers
1 sheet puff pastry–cold but not frozen
2 Tbs unsalted butter–melted
2 Tbs granulated sugar
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 cup granulated sugar for dipping
Place puff pastry on a sheet of parchment. In a small bowl, mix together the 2 Tbs granulated sugar and 1 1/2 tsp cinnamon. Using a pastry brush, brush the butter evenly covering the entire piece of pastry. Evenly and liberally sprinkle the cinnamon sugar on top of the butter. Measure or eye the center of the puff pastry and gently score with the dull end of a knife (do not cut through). Starting on one end, tightly roll the dough to the center. Roll the opposite end to the center, forming what looks like a scroll. Gently press together, and if you would like an exaggerated heart shape, pinch the bottom to a point. Wrap in parchment and/or plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill. After 1 hour and up to 24 hours, preheat the oven to 375F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Place the remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a saucer or shallow bowl. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and slice crosswise in 1/4″ sections. Reshape as necessary, then dip both sides in the sugar. Place on parchment paper approximately 1″ apart. bake for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. Allow to cool a bit, but not fully before removing from the parchment. The sugar will cause them to stick if they cool too much. Allow to finish cooling on a wire rack.
We had spaghetti and meat sauce for dinner last night. Simple but delicious. Lunch today? The sauce with a little cheese and a slice of pepperoni, for good measure. All sandwiched between two hearts of puff pastry.
Heart Pizza
makes 4
2 sheets of puff pastry-cold but not frozen
1/2 cup pasta or pizza sauce
4 pieces of pepperoni
1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
Use a cookie 3″ heart or other cookie cutter to cut out 8 pieces. Place 1/2 of the pieces on a lined cookie sheet. Heap with pasta sauce, sprinkle with parmesan and place a piece of pepperoni on top. Cover with the remaining pieces of dough. Using the tines of a fork, press around the edges to seal. Place in a 400F oven until golden brown and puffy (about 20 minutes).
Happy New Year! A well worn phrase with genuine intent. I find when spoken, it is always with a positive lilt; rarely a tone of indifference or sarcasm. No gifts to buy, no religious or political schism. Just the turn of the calendar giving us all a chance to
review
renew
resolve
For 2011 my goals were: I will not judge in disappointment, as I am confident I too fall short of expectations others place on me. Rather than toss the years of the past I will carry them forward both as fond memories and retrospective caution. And I will eat more fruit.
For 2012, I have chosen a theme: dust Yourself Off. Simply, bootstrap mechanics. Get up, wipe off the dust, and give it another go. And. Eat more vegetables.
Honey Roasted Carrots
2 dozen small carrots-washed, peeled and trimmed
2 Tbs honey
1 Tbs white balsamic vinegar
1/2 tsp toasted whole cumin seeds
Warm the honey and vinegar to thin. Toss the carrots in the mixture and place on a lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with cumin seeds. Place in a 350 oven and cook until soft and caramelized, about 30-35 minutes. I also like to serve these, with some tooth to them, as a crudite with dip. You only need to cook them until they are softened but not colored–about 25 minutes. They are delicious with a simple tahini/soy sauce dip.
We really didn’t eat a lot of desserts when I was a kid. After dinner a pot of coffee was brewed and bowls of fresh fruit and nuts were heaved to the table. One particular treat, at holiday time, was freshly cracked walnuts stuffed into dried figs. This year I gave the treat a little update, by dipping the figs in bittersweet chocolate. A sweet with benefits.
Walnut Stuffed Figs
12 dried figs
12 large walnut halves-toasted
bittersweet chocolate-melted and tempered
Using a sharp knife, make a split in the fig without cutting all the way through
Stuff a walnut into the fig and close it completely. Dip in chocolate and allow the chocolate to harden at room temperature. You can store these at room temperature or the refrigerator.
We had a gorgeous feast for Christmas dinner. A feast of seven fishes. I was excited to present home cured gravlax during cocktails. Many years ago, before i had cable, I watched a lot of Julia Child on PBS. An episode I distinctly remember is one where she made gravlax with a Seattle chef. I was amazed, but never actually made it. Truthfully, I’m not much a fan of salmon. But this, this gravlax, is something really special. Pure in flavor: sweet, salty, briny, and fresh. My family, never shy to poke fun, was primed to make bait jokes. but They found it difficult to utter much of anything through their stuffed gullets.
Gravlax
this takes several days to cure, plan accordingly
1 1/2 lbs fresh salmon filet (you must use salmon in season)
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup vanilla sugar*
1 Tbs grapefruit zest
1 heaping Tbs pink peppercorns
1-2 sprigs thyme
Rinse and dry the salmon filet. Line a casserole dish with plastic wrap, overlapping considerably. Place salmon filet in dish. In a bowl mix together the salt, vanilla sugar, brown sugar, grapefruit zest, peppercorns and thyme. Coat the salmon heavily with the mixture…be generous and make sure the entire surface is covered. Close the salmon in the plastic wrap, making sure it is well covered. Place a board or casserole dish on top of the fish, then use cans or bottles to weigh it down. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours. After 24 hours, remove the weight, open the plastic wrap; you will see that the sugar and salt are now liquid. Use it to baste the fish. Wrap again in plastic and place the weight back on. Place in the refrigerator for another 24 hours. On day three, repeat the process. On day four, your fish will be cured (if you are using a larger piece of fish, it may well take a bit more time). Your fish should be firm and have become a bit deeper in color. Remove from the cure and gently rinse with very cold water. Dry. Slice off a thin piece and taste. If it is overwhelmingly salty, place cold water in a casserole dish and put the fish in meat side down. Cover and place in refrigerator and let sit for 1 hour. Remove from water and taste again. if the fish is still unbearably salty, soak it again for a maximum of 1 hour.
Serve with blini, creme fraiche and dill or chives
*to make vanilla sugar, whirl 1 cup granulated sugar with 1/2 dried vanilla bean pod in a food processor.
Basically, I am obsessed with this stuff. It is a recipeI I swiped from my visit to Ca’ di Gosta, in the hills of Umbria. It was served one afternoon and after catching me licking the jar clean, Jenny shared the recipe with me. Great on a turkey sandwich or a perfect condiment to roast pork. Make it. make. it. now.
Tomato Chutney
makes approx 6 pints
3 lbs cherry tomatoes-cut in half
1 head garlic-peeled and finely chopped
1 heaping tsp crushed red pepper
about 2″ root ginger–peeled and finely chopped
10 oz cider vinegar
1 1/2-2 lbs dark brown sugar
generous pinch of kosher salt
Place all ingredients in a large pot. Stir and allow to sit for 30-60 minutes. Place over medium heat, stirring occasionally and allow it to get to a dark, jammy like consistency. This should take the better part of an hour. When you think the chutney may be ready, taste for flavor. You can adjust the sweet/sour/spicy at this point by adding more sugar, vinegar or red pepper. Test for doneness by placing a small bit of the chutney on a cold plate. If the chutney allows you to run a finger through it leaving a clean break, it is ready. You do not want it to get hard like a candy. Place in glass jars and store in the refrigerator or if you are familiar with proper canning procedures, process for 15 minutes (at sea level) in sterilized jars.
I have made gingerbread villages, chateaus, and houses for as long as I can remember. Last year I spotted little gingerbread houses perched on a mug at a blog called Not Martha. as far as I can tell–this is her original idea. Giddy and obsessed, as i have been known to get, I went to Mike to beg for help. He agreed to make cookie cutters so i wouldn’t have to knife cut each piece. Blowtorch in one hand, pliers in the other, he made these.
I in turn, made these adorable side cars, for a hot mug of cocoa or glass of milk.
Use your favorite gingerbread cookie recipe and bake as directed. Cool, assemble and decorate. Tip: I plane the sides with a microplane to ensure straight edges. These attach quite easily with royal icing make it nice and stiff. The wreaths are also made from royal icing colored green and piped with a no.63 tip onto parchment paper. I used sprinkles for berries. Allow to dry overnight–remove carefully–attach with royal icing.