Gateau Noir
On April 6, 2018 by Christy LarsenThis cake is actually named “chocolate nemesis”. It is a wonderful invention of the brilliant ladies at River Cafe in London; and it is simply spectacular.
I call it gateau noir; because, well, it makes me smile. Gateau noir is the name we gave a suitor {not mine} of a girlfriend; whom in my retelling of the 30 year old story, lovingly prepared gateau noir for her in the hope she would be his steady.
Had he used this recipe he might have succeeded.
Gateau Noir
(adapted from river cafe cookbook)
3/4 lb 70% bittersweet chocolate pieces
(please do not make this with nestle or similar chocolate chips–you will not get the result you deserve)
5 large eggs–room temperature
10 1/2 oz granulated sugar
1/2 lb unsalted butter–room temperature
pinch salt (my addition)
1 tsp vanilla (my addition)
1/2 cup water
Place eggs, 1/3 of sugar, salt and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk until the eggs have tripled in volume, and thickened. This will take a minimum of 10 minutes. In the meanwhile, place the remaining sugar in a saucepan with 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil and let boil for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in butter and chocolate…letting them melt completely. Allow to cool slightly then slowly pour into the whipped eggs. Whisk for 1 minute, if it doesn’t fully incorporate in that time, use a spatula and fold to fully incorporate. pour into prepared pan.
* to prepare the pan: use a springform pan and spray with pan spray…and then instead of flour, use cocoa powder to coat the pan, tapping out any excess.
there are two ways to bake this cake
To produce a creamy cake, a bit like pudding (this is in tune with the original recipe) bake the cake in a water bath (place your prepared pan, wrapped in foil, into a larger pan that will leave a “moat” of no less than 1″ on all sides. fill the “moat” with enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the prepared pan). It is best to do this with the cake pans already in the oven, to avoid spilling water all over the kitchen floor and into the cake batter.
Place prepared pan into a water bath and bake for approximately 35 minutes at 325. the cake is done when it no longer jiggles, but the center still seems a bit soft. if it begins to pull away from the sides, it is over-cooked. After 30 minutes, place your flat hand on top of the center of the cake, if it is no longer liquid, and looks as if it has a skin similar to that of chocolate pudding, and the cake doesn’t jiggle, it is fair to say it is baked enough.
For the more cakey, fallen souffle type of cake; pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake it in the oven without the water bath at 350 for about 30-40 minutes. the cake will rise considerably, then fall. it will look like a fallen souffle and have a light crispy exterior with a dense chewy interior. i love it this way…it tastes just as good and is not nearly as fussy.
Gingerbread Bundt with Espresso Glaze
On April 5, 2018 by Christy LarsenI disagree that enjoying gingerbread is a cold weather affair. Case in point; this cake. Not only rich and delicious, it is a great way to use up that lingering bottle of guiness a month past St. Paddy’s day.
{this recipe comes from Gramercy Tavern…and developed by Claudia Fleming. I have made this recipe and the recipe in her book “The Last Course”. I prefer this one. I have made a couple very minor adjustments to the recipe, which I will announce so you may or may not choose to do the same}
Gingerbread Bundt
{Gramercy Tavern}1 cup oatmeal or guiness stout
1 cup dark (not blackstrap) molasses
1/2 tsp baking soda
2 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
2 Tbs ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
pinch ground cardamom
generous pinch kosher salt {my addition–optional}
3 large eggs
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup vegetable oil
1 Tbs Trablit coffee extract *or 1 Tbs espresso powder {my addition-optional)
Preheat oven to 350F. Use shortening to grease pan (trust me on this…pan spray will not work, butter works better, but shortening works the best) and then dust with flour. Set aside.
Boil stout (or other beer if using) with molasses. Take off heat and then whisk in baking soda. The mixture will bubble up, so make sure your pan has plenty of room, so the mixture does not overflow. Allow to cool to room temperature. Sift together flour, baking powder, salt (if using), ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and cardamom {if using espresso powder, sift with flour. If using coffee extract, whisk in with eggs and sugar} Whisk together eggs, brown sugar and granulated sugar until completely incorporated. Whisk in oil and then molasses mixture. Add flour in single addition and whisk until it is just combined. Pour into prepared pan and bake about 50 minutes or until a tester comes out clean. Allow to cool in pan on rack for about 5 minutes, then turn onto rack, and allow to cool completely.
Espresso Buttermilk Glaze
{this is entirely my addition and is optional}
1 lb confectioner’s sugar
1 oz strong espresso
1 Tbs Trablit coffee extract or 1 Tbs espresso powder
buttermilk
Place the confectioner’s sugar in a bowl. Mix the trablit or espresso powder into the espresso. Pour the espresso bit by bit careful not to thin out the confectioner’s sugar too much. If the confectioner’s sugar is still too thick to pour, add buttermilk until you get a pouring consistency. NOTE: this uses such a small amount of buttermilk, if you don’t have it on hand, you can easily substitute cream, half and half or milk.
Generously pour over cooled cake and allow to harden.
*Trablit is a very strong and specific coffee extract. It cannot be substituted with clear extract or candy oil. If you can’t find it (or it is cost prohibitive) please use espresso powder.
Gum Wrapper Wreath
On February 6, 2018 by Christy LarsenI’m probably aging myself by admitting that a favorite past-time of mine,as a kid, was making gum wrapper chains. I just loved it. Sadly, sticks of gum are not easily found anymore. But colorful paper is and it works just as well.
for a tutorial on how to fold click here
I cut the heart shape from a box, and wrapped it in pink ribbon; then wrapped it again in gum wrapper chain, rather loosely, giving it a “bubbled” effect. This is not a quick craft–I folded about 5000 papers for this wreath
May I suggest getting the whole family involved?
Ding Dong Derivative
On January 25, 2018 by Christy LarsenWhy I have nostalgia for snacks I never actually ate as a kid is something for me to take up with my therapist. And when I say “my therapist”, I actually would be referring to my cat, or dog, or husband, or any poor soul who happens to be in the room listening to my audible reflections.
My mom did not allow “junk food” in her house. We had sweets, but everything was always made from scratch, and was mostly for special occasions. Snacks were cheese or a piece of fruit. Candy was for halloween, and ready-made cream filled cupcakes were for other people.
As a kid, I was always so envious of the kids with the silver wrapped delight in their lunch, while mind held an
Without belaboring the point, skip the store-bought and make your own. You won’t be sorry.
devil’s food cake
3 oz bittersweet chocolate chopped
1 1/2 cups hot coffee or hot water or mixture of the two (i use espresso with water)
3 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups cocoa powder
2 1/2 cups flour
2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1 1/4 tsp kosher salt
3 extra large eggs
3/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cup sour cream + 1/2 cup milk or 1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla
melt bittersweet chocolate in hot water/coffee. Sift dry ingredients together (including sugar). Mix together the chocolate/coffee mixture, milk, sour cream
*note…for ding dongs,
Oven temp should be 350 and bake until
creamy filling
1 cup milk
5 Tbs flour
1 1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/2 cup shortening or lard–room temperature
1/2 cup unsalted butter–room temperature
1/2 tsp vanilla
pinch salt
Over low heat, cook milk and flour in a saucepan until it makes a thick paste. Use a whisk to break up lumps. Let cool. In
ganache
1/2 lb bittersweet chocolate–chopped
1/2 cup cream
1 Tbs granulated sugar
1 Tbs corn syrup
2 Tbs butter
Heat cream with sugar and corn syrup over medium heat. Once cream begins to simmer and sugar is dissolved, pour over chocolate and butter. Let chocolate melt and then whisk together until it is thick and
assembly
Cut rounds of the chocolate cake. Spread a layer of filling on top of one round and top with a second round. Fill in nooks and large gaps with a bit more filling. Place in fridge to harden.
Set cakes on a cooling rack over a lined sheet pan. Pour ganache over cooled cakes and gently tap the rack to move the ganache over the cake. Use a small spatula warmed over a flame to nudge and smooth out the ganache. Let cool at room temp or in the fridge if you are in a rush. You may loose some of the gloss if you refrigerate. Serve as is, or wrap in foil for authenticity
Boxing Day Pate {chicken liver pate}
On December 26, 2017 by Christy LarsenI’ve celebrated boxing day a few times. In my first experience of “celebrating”, while living in the UK, I found myself going from store to store in my village; finding locked door and closed signs. Even with mail delivery two times a day, I didn’t get the memo that commerce ends when Christmas celebrations begin.
Boxing day is a lovely tradition and much more meaningful than half-off sales and crowded malls.
This simple pate rounds out a simple buffet. Or if you fancy yourself a bit more posh, a nice glass of champs, a cool jar of caviar, and this on a silver tray would have the Queen bowing to you.
Chicken Liver Pate
1/4 cup shallots–finely diced
1/2 cup salt pork –diced
2 large garlic cloves–smashed but kept whole
2 Tbs olive oil
1 lb chicken livers–well trimmed
1 cup chicken broth
leaves from 1 sprig thyme
pinch black pepper
1 stick butter
3 generous tablespoons cognac
In a saute pan with non-sloping sides, heat the olive oil and toss in the garlic, the shallots and the salt pork. Cook on low until the shallots begin to soften. Wash and dry the livers. Toss them into the shallots and oil and let brown, but don’t cook all the way through. This will only take a few minutes. Toss in the thyme and black pepper, then pour in the chicken broth. Cover the pan and let cook until the liver is cooked through and everything else is softened. Remove from heat and immediately tip everything into a food processor. Add the butter in chunks and process until you have a nice thick paste. Pour through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Stir in the cognac and then pour into ramekins or gifting jars. For a nice presentation, you can top with clarified butter and a fresh sprig of thyme.
Bean and Barley Chili
On December 8, 2017 by Christy LarsenI enjoy soups and stews year ’round, but this pleasantly cool weather makes me want to hunker down with a stick to your ribs kinda meal. But, stick to your ribs sometimes also means, stick to your thighs {if you smell what i’m cooking}. This recipe is vegetarian, and very low in fat. I might be so bold as to say, Guilt Free. It uses dried beans, so it will cost you a bit of time in the soaking, but is well worth it.
I make a huge pot and freeze the leftovers; mainly because Mike is a meat eater. Say vegetarian chili to him, and all he hears is “I didn’t make dinner tonight.”
Bean and Pearl Barley Chili
1 bag 15 bean soup mix–beans only * save the flavor packet for something else
water for soaking beans
1 onion– diced
2 celery ribs–diced
2 carrots–diced
1 pasilla chile–diced
1 cup mushrooms–diced
1/4 cup chili spice mix
1/4 tsp cayenne
4 Tbs tomato paste
1 cup pearl barley –uncooked
6 cups liquid * I use 4 cups vegetable broth ad 2 cups beer
1 generous Tablespoon grated bittersweet chocolate
salt and pepper to taste
Soak the bean in water overnight or use whatever method you are most comfortable with for softening dried beans. Drain. In a heavy stock pot, cook onions, celery carrots, pasilla, and mushrooms in a bit of olive oil, until they soften and just begin to brown. Toss in chili spice and cayenne and give it a turn or two to coat everything. Add the pearl barley and stir to coat. Stir in the tomato paste, liquid, and chocolate, then toss in the beans and cook until they and the barley are tender. It should take about an hour over medium heat. Do not let boil, just simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with all your favorite chili fixins.
Pumpkin Pots de Creme
On September 11, 2016 by Christy LarsenI’m not much for the pumpkin spice hype that comes in play at the first sign of frost. I am however, a pumpkin fiend. I love it sweet, I love it savory. With butter, as butter, warm and spicy; it brings me joy. While we have ripe pumpkins coming off the vine this early September, I’m not quite ready to jump head first into pie mode. This time of year, when it is warm during the day, but the sunrise and set are accompanied by a slight chill, I make custard. Not quite a pudding, pots de creme are a perfect spotlight for a delicate blend of spices and rich pumpkin puree. Something quite important when making these….you must not overcook. Pull these out of the oven before they are fully set.
Pots de Creme
(makes 5-6)
1 cup pumpkin puree
5 egg yolks
1/2 cup + 2 Tbs dark brown sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk {i use goat milk}
generous pinch kosher salt
1/4 tsp ground ginger
generous pinch cardamom, allspice, cinnamon, fresh nutmeg
whipped cream -for serving
If using fresh pumpkin puree, make sure it is very smooth. Set aside. Whisk {either by hand or with electric mixer} eggs and brown sugar until the sugar is completely melted and the eggs seem lighten in color and thicken a bit. Heat the milk, cream and salt in a saucepan until bubbles just start to form. Slowly whisk the hot milk into the egg until well incorporated. You are tempering the eggs with the hot milk. Whisk in the pumpkin puree and the spices. Run through a sieve into a spouted measuring cup. Use a spatula to scrape as many pumpkin solids as possible through the sieve. Give a good stir.
Pour into oven safe cups or small ramekins. This is meant to be served and eaten in small portions; think demitasse cups, tea cups, small bowls or ramekins. 4-6 ounces each.
Allow any air bubbles or foam to subside. Remove any remaining foam by skimming with a spoon.
Place in a cake pan or casserole dish. Place in an preheated 325F oven. Once in the oven, prepare a bain marie: pour enough hot water in the pan {careful to avoid getting water into the custard} to reach about halfway up the side of your custard cups. The bain marie will help to keep a constant temperature on the custard.
The length of time in the oven depends on the size of your baking vessel. Begin checking at 12 minutes. Tap the cup or bowl and look for gentle ripple (like that of a pebble in a pond). If you have a gentle ripple, then go ahead and remove from oven and allow to cool to warm in the water bath. If the custard isn’t quite done, continue to check every few minutes. If you check on them and they are completely firm, remove from the water bath immediately.
Do not put in the refrigerator hot, but place in the fridge once only slightly warm. Allow to chill completely and serve with a generous dollop of whipped cream
A properly cooked pots de creme is creamy, almost mousse like and silky. Once overcooked it can be a bit grainy and have an eggy flavor to it. Undercooked will result in a runny custard.
Coconut Frozen Yogurt
On August 8, 2016 by Christy LarsenI’m going to tell you a secret. Frozen yogurt is supposed to taste like yogurt that is frozen. It isn’t supposed to taste like sweet cream, or air. It is a rule that a nation of serve yourself fro-yo stores doesn’t know. Allegedly.
Because we have dairy goats, this recipe uses goat yogurt, but you can substitute with cow or sheep as you like. The end result has a yogurt tang to it…which is intentional. It tastes lightly sweet, very creamy and very coconutty.
Enjoy!
Coconut Frozen Yogurt
3 cups plain {unsweetened} yogurt
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup coconut flakes {sweet or unsweetened–your choice}
1 1/2 cups coconut cream
1/4 tsp coconut extract {optional}
Heat the coconut cream, sugar and coconut flakes in a saucepan until just simmered and the sugar has melted. Allow to cool for 10 minutes. Stir into the yogurt and add the coconut extract, if using. Cover and refrigerate overnight or at least 4 hours. Churn in your ice cream maker according to manufacture’s instructions.
Pizelle
On December 15, 2015 by Christy LarsenI learned to make pizzelle at the knee of my great-aunt rose when I was quite young. She was an amazing baker and a real stickler about cleanliness. It was more than once that the “no lick” rule was enforced. Each time i lift my pizzelle iron from its tattered and batter-scarred box, I am reminded of holidays past. Memories of my dear aunt rose float richly in the fragrance of these cookies. The season begins…
Pizzelle
3 1/2 cups flour
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1 Tbs + 1 tsp baking powder
4 eggs
2 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
3 Tbs Anise flavored extract
4 oz unsalted butter–melted and cooled
Combine the flour, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, sugar, extract and melted butter. Stir into the flour mixture. this batter will be nice and thick, similar to a pate a choux. Drop by the spoonful onto a hot pizzelle iron. Check after 60 seconds for color. You want it to be a light blonde in color. Do not undercook, undercooked pizzelle will not get nice and crispy. Sprinkle with a bit of powdered sugar and serve.
You can form these into cones or cups, or even cut in fourths while they are still warm.
I like to use them for large and beautiful ice cream sandwiches…or rolled and filled with a bit of brandy flavored whipped cream…but I mostly like them just as they are
Italian Fig Cookies {cucidati}
On December 14, 2015 by Christy LarsenTo be honest this is more of a st. joseph’s day treat than a christmas one but truth be told they are good any time of year. Be warned this is not a fig newton facsimile. These are spicy and heady; filled with riches wrapped in a buttery italian pastry called pasta frolla. My presentation isn’t typical either. These are typically rolled in a tube-shape and cut in sections. On a cookie tray I find them to stay fresher longer, when presented like this.
italian fig cookies
cucidati
pasta frolla
4 cups flour
2/3 cups granulated sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1 1/4 tsp kosher salt
1 cup unsalted butter–cold and cut into pieces
4 large eggs
1/2 tsp vanilla
using a food processor, pulse together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt a few times to ensure fully mixed. drop in the butter and pulse until the butter has incorporated completely turning the mixture into a powder. add the eggs and vanilla and continue to pulse until the dough forms a ball. remove and wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight.
filling
12 oz dried figs (i use calimyrna)
1/2 cup currants or raisins
zest of 1 orange finely grated
1/3 cup blanched, slivered almonds–toasted
1/3 cup bittersweet chocolate–cut into pieces or chips
3 heaping Tablespoons apricot preserves
3 Tbs dark rum
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
light pinch ground cloves
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
egg beaten with a bit of water for egg wash
powdered sugar glaze or royal icing for decoration
sprinkles for decoration
If the figs are hard and dry, place them in a bowl of hot water to soften, drain and then proceed with recipe. Dice the figs and place in a bowl with the rest of the ingredients. Stir to fully incorporate. place the entire mixture in the food processor, fitted with steel blade and pulse until you have a paste. Place in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Roll the dough out to 1/4″ and cut with a small round, plain or scalloped cookie cutter. Place just a small bit of fig on top of half the cutouts. Brush a bit of egg wash with a brush on the outer edge of the dough. Place a second piece of dough on top and press with tines of fork or toothpick to seal. Brush top with egg wash. Bake at 350 for about 10 minutes. You have to watch to see that they don’t burn, you want them just starting to brown on the bottom. When cool, leave plain or drizzle a bit of powdered sugar glaze (powdered sugar and milk to a runny consistency), or royal icing and add a few sprinkles.