Pressing Cider
On October 13, 2023 by Christy LarsenThe small suburb of Los Angeles where I spent my youth was a bedroom community with nice plots and manicured front lawns. Children were everywhere and we all seemed to be just about the same age. Most everyone was a transplant from the East or Midwest, so to stave off suburban boredom, our moms would conspire; making plans for treks to the beach, the mountains, the desert, museums, theme parks, and everything in between. A favorite place which was annual event (including the time I had a terrible toothache and was being melodramatic in the back of the station wagon) was what we called Apple Country. It has been over 30 years, but I’ve been chasing the memories ever since.
I am someone who cannot resist (and why should I?) a long country road, a farmstand, or a run-down shack with a hand-lettered sign selling ANYTHING. If it is open, I’m stopping; apple farms included. Freshly pressed cider and warm donuts made with it is a fall treat that everyone should be so lucky to come upon.
We are not an apple farm. We grow apples, but none more than to press for our use and to make the odd batch of donuts or two. Sometimes our neighbors will off load a few tons of fallen fruit for us to feed our pigs; and truth be told we skim off the mildly bruised and press those into juice as well. We have our own small press and it is a handcrafted machine that I, with just a few hours of bending, twisting, and turning, can turn a dozen pecks of apples into gallons of cider. We pull it out Mid-October, and return it to storage by Thanksgiving.
While the act of pressing cider isn’t quite as magical as an outing with neighbors eating apple pie, donuts, ice cream, butter, and cider made by someone else’s hand without any concern of calories or affect, it brings me joy. Through the course of fall, I will make all of the things and I will eat all of the same; just not in one sitting.
Pumpkin Pots de Creme
On September 11, 2016 by Christy LarsenI’m not much for the pumpkin spice hype that comes in play at the first sign of frost. I am however, a pumpkin fiend. I love it sweet, I love it savory. With butter, as butter, warm and spicy; it brings me joy. While we have ripe pumpkins coming off the vine this early September, I’m not quite ready to jump head first into pie mode. This time of year, when it is warm during the day, but the sunrise and set are accompanied by a slight chill, I make custard. Not quite a pudding, pots de creme are a perfect spotlight for a delicate blend of spices and rich pumpkin puree. Something quite important when making these….you must not overcook. Pull these out of the oven before they are fully set.
Pots de Creme
(makes 5-6)
1 cup pumpkin puree
5 egg yolks
1/2 cup + 2 Tbs dark brown sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk {i use goat milk}
generous pinch kosher salt
1/4 tsp ground ginger
generous pinch cardamom, allspice, cinnamon, fresh nutmeg
whipped cream -for serving
If using fresh pumpkin puree, make sure it is very smooth. Set aside. Whisk {either by hand or with electric mixer} eggs and brown sugar until the sugar is completely melted and the eggs seem lighten in color and thicken a bit. Heat the milk, cream and salt in a saucepan until bubbles just start to form. Slowly whisk the hot milk into the egg until well incorporated. You are tempering the eggs with the hot milk. Whisk in the pumpkin puree and the spices. Run through a sieve into a spouted measuring cup. Use a spatula to scrape as many pumpkin solids as possible through the sieve. Give a good stir.
Pour into oven safe cups or small ramekins. This is meant to be served and eaten in small portions; think demitasse cups, tea cups, small bowls or ramekins. 4-6 ounces each.
Allow any air bubbles or foam to subside. Remove any remaining foam by skimming with a spoon.
Place in a cake pan or casserole dish. Place in an preheated 325F oven. Once in the oven, prepare a bain marie: pour enough hot water in the pan {careful to avoid getting water into the custard} to reach about halfway up the side of your custard cups. The bain marie will help to keep a constant temperature on the custard.
The length of time in the oven depends on the size of your baking vessel. Begin checking at 12 minutes. Tap the cup or bowl and look for gentle ripple (like that of a pebble in a pond). If you have a gentle ripple, then go ahead and remove from oven and allow to cool to warm in the water bath. If the custard isn’t quite done, continue to check every few minutes. If you check on them and they are completely firm, remove from the water bath immediately.
Do not put in the refrigerator hot, but place in the fridge once only slightly warm. Allow to chill completely and serve with a generous dollop of whipped cream
A properly cooked pots de creme is creamy, almost mousse like and silky. Once overcooked it can be a bit grainy and have an eggy flavor to it. Undercooked will result in a runny custard.
Fresh from the Field Pumpkin Pie
On November 3, 2015 by sixtyacrebakerPumpkin pie and I have made a bit of a journey together. Up until a decade or so ago, I used canned pumpkin and its accompanying recipe for my pie. It was good. Libby’s had a bit of a lock on the pumpkin pie market and deservedly so. Canned pumpkin, canned milk, sugar, eggs, spices. Easy as pie, right? It wasn’t until I started buying sugar pumpkins, at the farmer’s market, and subsequently growing my own,that I began making homemade pumpkin puree. The change has been slow, and deliberate. Moving from canned pumpkin to homegrown was a bit more daunting than ditching the canned milk. When we moved to the ranch we started growing some heirloom varieties of pumpkins. After a myriad of taste tests and bum to prove it, we’ve decided that the Jarrahdale pumpkin makes the best pie. Or should I say, my best pies are made with Jarrahdale pumpkins. The flesh is firm and a bit sweet after roasting and decidedly “pumpkinny”. When processed it is very smooth and makes an almost pudding like pie. Admittedly, they can be difficult to find..and this recipe works well with any (except jack-o-lantern type) pumpkins…but if you see one…grab it. They keep well, look eerie and taste amazing.
Pumpkin Pie
makes an 8 or 9 inch standard depth pie
1 recipe flaky pie crust (recipe follows)
2 cups fresh pumpkin puree (instructions follow)
2 whole large eggs
2 large egg yolks
1/2 cup whipping cream
3/4 cup dark brown sugar–gently packed (add a bit more if you like a sweeter pie
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/8 tsp ground cloves
1/8 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 tsp allspice
*note: you can add or eliminate any spices you wish. I only suggest that you don’t overdo the cinnamon. The flavor of fresh pumpkin is gentle, if you put too much cinnamon, you will kill the subtlety.
Preheat the oven to 375f.
Whisk all ingredients, except the eggs, together in a large bowl and taste for sweetness and spice. At this point you can add a bit more sugar (add 1 Tbs at a time) and spice. When you are happy with the flavor, whisk in the eggs and egg yolks and place the bowl in the refrigerator while you “blind bake” the crust. Be sure to bake only until the crust begins to look cooked, but not browned. You do not want to over bake, as you need to put it back in the oven once you fill with the pumpkin custard. Remove the crust from the oven, remove the weights and parchment paper, and immediately pour in the custard. Reduce the oven heat to 350f. Place the pie on a baking sheet and bake for approximately 40 minutes. It is important that you watch it. You do not want to overcook the custard. It is done if you tap the side of the pan and you get a slight jiggle/ripple in the middle of the pie (1 or 2″ from the center of the pie). Just as if you have skipped a small rock into a pond. If the ripple starts from the outer rim of the pie, it is not done. If it doesn’t ripple at all, pull it from the oven and get it on a cooling rack right away. Let cool at room temperature. Store in refrigerator.
Pie Crust
you can use a favorite recipe, or even a store bought crust (which simply isn’t as good, but I understand). This is a simple recipe that I use for a nice tasting and sturdy crust.
2 1/4 cups all purpose flour
3/4 tsp kosher salt
1 Tbs sugar
1/2 cup cold butter–cut into chunks
1/2 cup lard
5-6 Tbs of cold water + 1/2 tsp vinegar
In a large bowl mix together the dry ingredients. Add the butter and shortening all at once and “cut” into the pastry. I like to use my hands for this. I will work the mixture until the butter and shortening are incorporated into the flour in hazelnut size pieces. Add enough very cold water to bring the mixture together, but it should not be sticky. It should also not be dry. Handle the dough as minimally as possible, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. If you are making the pastry well in advance (more than a day), I suggest wrapping it and freezing it. Raw dough will turn gray after a time in the refrigerator.
Fresh Pumpkin Puree
Do not use a pumpkin that you would use for carving. They can be stringy and don’t carry the flavor of sugar or (in this case) the jarrahdale pumpkin. Wash the pumpkin well, cut in half and remove all the seeds and stringy bits. Reserve the seeds and roast them for a treat. Place the pumpkins, cut side down on a lined baking sheet and place in a 350f oven until they are very soft. Let cool, remove skin run through a ricer, food mill, or immersion blender. For a silky smooth texture, process the “meat” of the pumpkin until it is no longer lumpy. I use a hand blender which works perfectly, but you can use a processor as well. Place puree in a cheese cloth lined colander and let drain 6 hours or overnight. You will need 2 cups for the pie recipe, but your pumpkin might yield more. You can freeze the extra at this point.
