Several years ago, Mike and I enjoyed a quick trip to London. My good friend Rebecca lives outside of London proper, but popped into the city to treat us to lunch at a fancy restaurant. In typical American fashion, we eschewed the fancy and ordered pub style lunch. And in typical British fashion, Rebecca didn’t flinch. I lived in London, which now seems a lifetime ago, for several years. I always ordered bangers and mash when found on a menu. Its one of those meals that everyone has a version of, and everyone’s mum made best. I always found the meal to be hearty, comforting, and delicious. My version here is an attempt to copy the version we had on our last visit to London.
Bangers and Mash
mushroom gravy
1 stalk celery–finely diced
1 carrot–finely diced
1 onion–finely diced
pinch salt
3 cups beef stock
1 bay leaf
3-4 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs thyme
2 oz unsalted butter-softened
3 Tbs flour
3 crimini mushooms–sliced
4 crimini mushrooms–diced
Cook the celery, carrot, and onion in a bit of olive oil until just softened. Add the beef stock all at once and stir. Toss in the sliced mushrooms, the bay leaf , the parsley and thyme. Cover and let simmer for at least 30 minutes but up to an hour. Strain. Return the liquid back to the pot. Mix together the butter and flour in a bowl. Add the warm stock, a bit at a time to the butter-flour mixture, whisking to make a smooth paste. Once you have a runny paste (much like toothpaste), whisk it into the broth until smooth. Toss in the diced mushrooms and simmer until it thickens and the mushrooms soften–about 10 minutes.
Bangers
4 bangers
4 thick cut bacon rashers
1/2 bottle lager
Put bangers and bacon in a sided saute pan. Pour in beer and simmer until the beer has completely evaporated. Add just a bit of olive oil and allow it to continue to cook until the bangers are cooked through. Your pan will get really dark and scary looking. Don’t worry…it won’t damage (fill the pan with water and slowly simmer on the stove, it will clean right up)
Mash
5 smallish yukon gold potatoes–peeled and halved
1/2 stick of unsalted butter–room temp
2 oz cream chese–room temp
milk
salt and pepper
Boil potatoes in salted water. drain and return to pot. Toss in butter and cream cheese and mash. Add enough milk to get your desired consistency. Once you add the milk, you have to be mindful. Do not whip and beat endlessly. If you do, you may end up with gummy mash–yuck. Better to have a lump or two. If you like silky mashed potatoes, run them through a ricer before adding butter and cream cheese. add salt and pepper to taste.
To Assemble
Place a generous portion of potatoes on your plate. top with the sausage and enough gravy to make you smile. Top with a rasher of bacon.
My two best finds in England? Becky and sticky toffee pudding. Becky is a Brit and a cherished friend. She is also whip-smart and has a laugh that fills a room. I was reminded of that last week. Mike and I met up with Becky for lunch whilst in London on a visit. Such a treat!
I was also reminded of the first time I’d eaten sticky toffee pudding. It was Becky’s birthday and I had strong-armed my way into a reservation at the, then, most popular spot in town, The Ivy. I may have insinuated that I was a food writer. I can’t remember. It was 10 years ago and not entirely a lie; my diary is loaded with food descriptions…as far back as the 6th grade. I have since eaten sticky toffee pudding hundreds of times but none have been as good. The Ivy didn’t invent it but they sure did perfect it. Almost. I have made a few additions to their recipe along the way that give it a bit of a kick, a more modern flavor if you will but it is them and Becky that I have to thank. I was one small fib away from never knowing the beauty of sticky toffee pudding
For my final, in culinary school, I made sticky toffee pudding into a composed dessert with bourbon hard sauce and cocoa nib tuile all wrapped in a caramelized sugar cage. It was beautiful and earned me high marks but way too fussy for everyday enjoyment. This recipe is not complicated, but it is a bit time-consuming. It takes a bit of advanced planning, but I promise, it is worth it.
ADAPTED FROM THE IVY COOKBOOK
for the date puree
375gr stoned dates
375ml water
1/2 inch knob of peeled ginger kept whole
Simmer the dates and ginger in the water over low heat about 15 minutes until they are very soft and the water has almost evaporated. Remove the knob of ginger and discard. process the remaining water and dates until very smooth.
for the toffee sauce
640 ml heavy cream
340 gr granulated sugar
130 gr corn syrup (optional)
130 gr unsalted butter
generous pinch of kosher salt
1 tsp vanilla
Pour half the cream, sugar, corn syrup (if using), butter and salt into a thick-bottomed pan and mix well. Bring the sauce to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon, and continue to boil until it is golden brown. Remove from heat and allow it to cool slightly. Whisk in the remaining cream and vanilla. Set aside.
for the sponge
130 g unsalted butter–room temperature
375 g dark brown sugar
3 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
450 gr bread flour
10 gr baking powder
3 gr baking soda
3 gr kosher salt
1/8 tsp ground clove
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground cardamom
Grease and line a baking tin measuring approximately 30x24x6cm, with parchment paper. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, clove, ginger, and cardamom. In a mixer cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, do not allow the mixture to separate. If it does, add a bit of flour to bind it back together. Add vanilla. Scrape the sides of the bowl and beat until the mixture is smooth. Fold in flour mixture until smooth. Add the warm date puree and mix well. Spread in prepared tin and bake for about 45-50 minutes at 350. Use a cake tester to ensure you do not overbake.
To assemble
Once cooled, remove the cake from the tin and trim the edges. Slice horizontally into 3 and reassemble in the baking tin, spreading two-thirds of the sauce between layers. Just before you are ready to serve, place the cake back in a 350 oven for about 15 minutes, then cut into equal servings. Top with remaining toffee sauce. You can serve with softly whipped cream, creme fraiche, soured cream or ice cream.
**You can also make these into cupcakes. Bake as normal and before they are completely cooled, poke holes in them and pour in the toffee sauce. Allow it to seep in and pool on top. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.